Actually this post starts on 29 April when we had left Kemer and arrived in Kekova (Ucagis) at 17.30 having had a satisfactory little "race" with a fully crewed 40 footer!
Ucagis has a slightly tricky entrance to the anchorage which
we used probably more than any other after the circumnavigation.
On this occasion we stayed for just one night and were aboard Vision for a sundowner.
The pictures below are from later visits.
PICTURES xxxxxxxxx
From Kekova we sailed to Kas in order to clear out of Turkey. Luckily there was space to go bows-to at the Customs station and all went smoothly - we were duly stamped out for no charge. Cleared Kas 1500. From there directly across to the Greek island of N. Kastellorizo (4.2 nm).
A sleepy village set amidst a lovely Turkish archipelago
After a peaceful day we prepared for a longer trip starting the following afternoon and at 1415 on May Day we took our leave from Kastellorizo
cheerful Greek fisherman - and had a lovely pod of dolphins for company
(Photos can be enlarged by clicking on them. Then returned to the previous size by clicking on the boxed cross in the top right corner.)
We decided to avoid Rhodes and to head directly for Karpathos.
It was an overnight sail, Christel and I standing 4 hour watches. A beautiful night with a good breeze and fantastic luminescence.
At 1025 2nd May we were moored alongside the wall at Diafani. A trip of 124nm.
We had arrived on the village's saints day and attended an extraordinary evening of dancing and apparently of betrothal which according to ancient custom should only take place on this one night of the year
Unfortunately I had not yet learned to use my new camera in low lighting so I have only the one picture
The following day I was still a bit under the weather with rather bad herpes on my nose so Christel went alone all the way up to Olimpos village.
And then on Sunday 4th May we sailed via Pigadhia (Karpathos harbour) to Nisos Kasos and anchored in a protected bay on the Southern tip.
The following day I was still a bit under the weather with rather bad herpes on my nose so Christel went alone all the way up to Olimpos village.
And then on Sunday 4th May we sailed via Pigadhia (Karpathos harbour) to Nisos Kasos and anchored in a protected bay on the Southern tip.
Monday 5th May, aweigh 0815 on passage toward Sitia. Wind NNW 23kt, 2 reefs and small genoa.
Moored in the marina at 1730 (75nm.) Good trip !
Moored in the marina at 1730 (75nm.) Good trip !
Spent 6th May trying to sort gas bottle connectors and basic provisioning. Some rather disgruntled boats from an around the world rally. Management had not been good and the boats did not seem to be talking to one another. Not too positive impression but then I was on antibiotics and maybe not at my best!
Wednesday 7th May saw f5 WNW which was not too helpful for the trip around to Ag Nikolaos.
A fairly bumpy ride with Christel chewing valiantly on sea sickness chewing gum.
By this stage the reverse circumnavigation (sailing towards the sunrise) began to seem a bad idea.
Ag Nikolaus
Seemingly a much more pleasant marina. Everything needed for provisioning was available. We arranged a car rental for Friday.
The site is a re-creation of Knossos as it might have been.
A pleasant and peaceful "de-ruined" palace.
Saturday 10th May
We dropped our moorings in a calm marina with a forecast useful NE f4
Passed the fortifications on Mikronisi and continued Northwards under engine to an overnight anchorage South of Spinolonga.
12 May
Northwards around Capo Agios Ioannis and on to the off lying islet of Dhia (Dia) where we could find only one bay with reasonable holding.
However it was quite dramatic with high barren cliffs and we picked up a mooring after other boats had left.
Fairly active bird life with gull chicks on the ledges and to Christel's joy a pair of huge Buteo Rufus
(Wikipedia picture)
The following day (13 May) was very nearly calm with a misty dawn and entirely beautiful.
We motored most of the way to Rethimon.
The contrast between the serene church on the headland as we altered course into the bay and the busy streets with an almost moorish feel was quite remarkable
Rethimon
We enjoyed a very pleasant evening - with cheerful troubadors!
Wednesday 14 May Christel took the bus into Heraklion and flew home to Finland.
The next day was spent fitting the Pactor equipment to provide the possibility of emails via the HAM short wave network.
16 May began with an almost total eclipse of the moon followed by planning for the onward voyage
Sat 17 May Rethimon Westwards - Moorings dropped 0530.
And my first Pactor email arrived from Richard (Hula) while I was dodging a small Greek military vessel!
We had light NE winds so Perkins was helping the Genny as I contemplated an overnight anchorage on Gramvosa (Crete) or the possibility of making it all the way to Kythira.
At 1400 I decided to try for Kythira. The wind was helpful and Perkins willing.
We arrived by moonlight with twinkling onshore lights and the harbour lighthouse. But not much else
23.30!
I was happy to get the anchor down somewhere inside Kapsali anchorage.
Sunday 18 May Kapsali harbour (Kythira)
And here is the view next morning. The anchor was in stones and not very secure. There was space alongside on the quay so I shifted berths.
And here is how it looked from the hillside.A truly lovely little harbour.
Monday was rather windy and there was a little juggling of lines . An English boat joined us...the skipper shouting curses at his crew (wife?) She doing her best with his ropes muttering Yes captain Bligh, No captain Bligh (not quite) under her breath.
Tuesday was calmer and the boats seemed comfortable so I hired a motor scooter and had a delightful tour of the island.
The castle walls with a small chapel and a spring flowers photo for Christel!
A French couple - with an Italian flag - alongside in a tiny fishing harbour (Ag Pelagia ?).
They had been 8 days at sea without engine and evidently not able to make harbour. They did not seem too distressed.
The imposing castle from "inland"
I returned the scooter without silencer in the evening to a slightly vexed agent.
The forecast for Wednesday looked hopeful and with- according to Iraklion Radio - a "significant change" approaching (N to NW 7/8) It seemed time to go.
Wednesday 21 May
Departure from Kythira castle
Kythira to Kalamata
80nm
A trip with baffling winds and finally a push by Perkins to get in before it became too dark. The marina seemed fairly deserted but a couple from a nearby boat were most helpful when they realised I was singlehanded.
Kalamata was a large port and agricultural centre where everything could eventually be found even Lidl and a chandler..
It also turned out to be well sheltered as the forecast northerlies arrived.
It was time to do some serious connection work to the pair of bow batteries using heavy duty wiring and serious crimping and soldering. Worries that temporary connections might have produced an opencircuit on the second alternator and killed some diodes proved unfounded. Bought a very agricultural battery charger.
As in so many other places a blackbird was singing his heart out.
I was a little less cheerful because the Adverc monitoring system simply did not make sense.
However I did get good SW reception despite the masts all around and I did find a good internet cafe.
I was getting GRIB files and the weather seemed about to settle. It remained cold however.
Saturday 31May
Pactor now working correctly, auto tuning works perfectly and the Digital Monitor now makes sense.
Major clean and tidy up.
Wednesday 7th May saw f5 WNW which was not too helpful for the trip around to Ag Nikolaos.
A fairly bumpy ride with Christel chewing valiantly on sea sickness chewing gum.
By this stage the reverse circumnavigation (sailing towards the sunrise) began to seem a bad idea.
Ag Nikolaus
Seemingly a much more pleasant marina. Everything needed for provisioning was available. We arranged a car rental for Friday.
Navigation tips
At least some of the road signs were bi-lingual
Living in clover Cretan style
The site is a re-creation of Knossos as it might have been.
A pleasant and peaceful "de-ruined" palace.
Saturday 10th May
We dropped our moorings in a calm marina with a forecast useful NE f4
Passed the fortifications on Mikronisi and continued Northwards under engine to an overnight anchorage South of Spinolonga.
12 May
Northwards around Capo Agios Ioannis and on to the off lying islet of Dhia (Dia) where we could find only one bay with reasonable holding.
However it was quite dramatic with high barren cliffs and we picked up a mooring after other boats had left.
Fairly active bird life with gull chicks on the ledges and to Christel's joy a pair of huge Buteo Rufus
(Wikipedia picture)
We motored most of the way to Rethimon.
The contrast between the serene church on the headland as we altered course into the bay and the busy streets with an almost moorish feel was quite remarkable
Rethimon
Wednesday 14 May Christel took the bus into Heraklion and flew home to Finland.
The next day was spent fitting the Pactor equipment to provide the possibility of emails via the HAM short wave network.
16 May began with an almost total eclipse of the moon followed by planning for the onward voyage
Sat 17 May Rethimon Westwards - Moorings dropped 0530.
And my first Pactor email arrived from Richard (Hula) while I was dodging a small Greek military vessel!
We had light NE winds so Perkins was helping the Genny as I contemplated an overnight anchorage on Gramvosa (Crete) or the possibility of making it all the way to Kythira.
At 1400 I decided to try for Kythira. The wind was helpful and Perkins willing.
23.30!
I was happy to get the anchor down somewhere inside Kapsali anchorage.
Sunday 18 May Kapsali harbour (Kythira)
And here is the view next morning. The anchor was in stones and not very secure. There was space alongside on the quay so I shifted berths.
Monday was rather windy and there was a little juggling of lines . An English boat joined us...the skipper shouting curses at his crew (wife?) She doing her best with his ropes muttering Yes captain Bligh, No captain Bligh (not quite) under her breath.
Tuesday was calmer and the boats seemed comfortable so I hired a motor scooter and had a delightful tour of the island.
The castle walls with a small chapel and a spring flowers photo for Christel!
A French couple - with an Italian flag - alongside in a tiny fishing harbour (Ag Pelagia ?).
They had been 8 days at sea without engine and evidently not able to make harbour. They did not seem too distressed.
The imposing castle from "inland"
I returned the scooter without silencer in the evening to a slightly vexed agent.
The forecast for Wednesday looked hopeful and with- according to Iraklion Radio - a "significant change" approaching (N to NW 7/8) It seemed time to go.
Wednesday 21 May
Departure from Kythira castle
80nm
A trip with baffling winds and finally a push by Perkins to get in before it became too dark. The marina seemed fairly deserted but a couple from a nearby boat were most helpful when they realised I was singlehanded.
Kalamata was a large port and agricultural centre where everything could eventually be found even Lidl and a chandler..
It also turned out to be well sheltered as the forecast northerlies arrived.
It was time to do some serious connection work to the pair of bow batteries using heavy duty wiring and serious crimping and soldering. Worries that temporary connections might have produced an opencircuit on the second alternator and killed some diodes proved unfounded. Bought a very agricultural battery charger.
As in so many other places a blackbird was singing his heart out.
I was a little less cheerful because the Adverc monitoring system simply did not make sense.
However I did get good SW reception despite the masts all around and I did find a good internet cafe.
I was getting GRIB files and the weather seemed about to settle. It remained cold however.
Saturday 31May
Pactor now working correctly, auto tuning works perfectly and the Digital Monitor now makes sense.
Major clean and tidy up.
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