December 2003 Crossing the Atlantic


                        The seemingly huge Alantic Ocean



Thursday 4 December 2003

So much has been done
Water and fuel topped up.
Batteries fully charged
Food milk fruit juice beer and wine - hopefully enough for four weeks without rationing.
Radio schedules established with Skandinaviska Natet.
And much much more.



We are to sail from little Gomera in the Canary Islands, close to the African coast and Western Sahara........




..........To Martinique in the West Indies lying in the east of the Caribbean Sea and directly north of Venezuela in South America.



The distance to be sailed is approximately  2,700nm   (about 5,000 km)
Initially we will probably sail south of the direct route in order to pick up more helpful (trade?)winds

We hope to do a little better than 100nm per day (24 hours)

So Christmas might be difficult but New Year within the bounds of possibility.

(It would perhaps be unlucky to mention these hopes before a voyage but this is written retrospectively!!)





                                       Göran                          Pia                          John

Almost ready to go,  not much wind yet but a breeze is forecast for the afternoon......not necessarily
from a very helpful direction.




After a picnic lunch with Christel        

                                                                   Deck shoes on
Reefing lines rigged, but no lazy jacks


Perkins running sweetly

          Log 2751.7nm


Cast off fore and aft



And away we go.






A last photograph by Christel as we wound our way through the moored boats of San Sebastian harbour and out past the protective pier head.














1200   San Sebastian pier head to port.

1210   Main and Perkins    wind f2  178deg !!

1425  Wind WNW 4/5. Much more useful
          Course ordered 205 degrees Magnetic
          Starboard tack, one reef. Genoa poled to port.           

  1500 Generator streamed and giving approx 6A. Very satis.

1800  Rain.  Wind increased to 21kt NNW  Barometer continues to fall. Boat speed 6.5kt which is                    useful

2030  Watch keeping starts. Göran on.

          I managed to get some sleep in my forepeak berth, I used the port berth with its lee cloth. 

2330   Pia on watch.  


5 December 2003

0230  John on watch. 

0300  Wind shifted more northerly but died to less than 6kt
           Engine on, steering 222 degrees Magnetic.
 0500 Hierro just visible sinking on the northern horizon. 
          Most boats in the area report they are motoring.

0530  Göran on watch.   Genoa still poled to port with engine running.


1200       And there is just enough north in the wind to get the                     genoa to fill on starboard.

 Engine off!!   


              N 26 deg 24.5 
             W18 deg 35.6

              Wind 10kt northerly
              Trip 117nm logged
              Barometer steady    

        

       

        Testing the HF radio for email to Wiksberg,   cannot                        make reliable contacts, perhaps conditions will                            improve overnight  














6 December 2003

0200    John on watch.  A glorious starlit night, but the wind has deserted us again. The rolling and                      slamming is however not too bad. (The main is guyed forward).  The genoa just about fills if                  we keep Perkins fairly quiet.  We maintain a little less than 5kt.

0845    Hula (Richard Woods) is motoring into Mindelo (Porto Grande on Sao Vicente)for fuel.  
                                                In 1989  Mindelo had given Kwa Heri the delightful welcome on vhf....
                                                       "Little boat, little boat  welcome to my country" 

1200       N 24 deg 48.4  W 19 deg 59.2   
               Trip 223nm logged

                Better Pactor (radio) connection. Position reported.

 1515               Distant westbound sailing vessel crossing astern
         
2300        Göran on watch, John off.    Wind ESE 4   Going nicely.


7 December 2003 and the Tropics
  
0500         John on watch, Pia points out large mv crossing ahead. Otherwise a quiet night.

0810        Altered course  235 M. after receiving GRIB files.

s/y Vaitea


1045        Yacht ahead on similar course.


1200  N 23 deg 19.3'  W 21deg  21.00'
           5.3 kt  235 deg M    Trip 112

     And so we are in the Tropics
Capricorn lies at 23 deg 26.37 North


1417      Spoke catamaran Vaitea   she                  was home-built in East                                     Germany  

In the evening I managed to send a mail via the HAM amateur HF radio network
to Christel to distribute to Göran's friends via normal email.

And so the days went gently by.

It gradually got warmer and the skies clearer.  Unlike the Kwa Heri crossing we kept the main up for the entire trip.
Mostly it was held forward by the guy.

The rolling was far less and the chafe minimal as long as the sail did not bear heavily on the shrouds.

The genoa was mostly poled out to starboard  as the wind usually had enough east to keep it filled.

The sun awning, zipped to the after edge of the spray hood, really started to justify its existence now we have the tropical sun overhead.


 Göran took sole responsibility for fishing, which was not a simple task because the fishing line and the towed Aquair generator invariably got tangled.   So when Göran decided our speed was ideal for dorado....rather less than 5kt, the Aquair had to be hauled in. 




And at on 11 December our very first fish.
and on the morning of 12December another beauty.

Göran did all the knife work and Pia the wonderful cooking.

I gladly helped with the eating.






Pia's bread making was also a total triumph.

Glorious trade wind sailing, excellent company and
entirely different from when last I was at this spot in the ocean.
For it was here that Kwa Heri had to alter course for Mindelo and retire from the ARC rally. We had been becalmed for three days and our water would no longer last to the West Indies.
It also was 12 December but in 1989.


We were were now able to shape our course more directly for Martinique because the Trade Winds and the North Equatorial Current were really in our favour.

13 December  and on Saint Lucia's day the island of  S Lucia is almost exactly dead ahead!!

This is also the day when we heard that Richard and Hula have left Mindelo.  It sounds as if he will be trying to beat us to the other side.....

Trade wind sailing continued but with a little extra urgency. Another magnificent Dorado dinner with drinks on the foredeck at 6kt.

15 December  and we reckon this is halfway

                                                            N 17 deg 28.4    W  37 deg 00.5
             Cake and Congnac at 1600 to celebrate but now we must concentrate Hula is a touch ahead


17 December

                                                            Sunset under our new racing rig !!

Our "Turbo" rig

We set up the working jib on the inner forestay - something Bluesipp had only used before when the genoa was away for repairs in Greece.
                                         
         Pia  achieved 8.2 kt and we had a 24 hour run of 155nm.   Two records for this trip so far.

And so we continued, no other shipping seen. Wind continued to have enough east in it to permit the turbo rig and we maintained almost the same speed as Richard in his larger boat.

21 December

The weather is starting to become squally and we have put a couple of reefs in the main. 
At dawn we saw the last sickle of the old moon.

1200 Z         N 15deg 39.64  W 51deg 50.85   Log  1062.8        24 hour run  146.8 nm  A new record
  
                          But Richard stays just ahead.
                    Doing a lot of silly sums to see when on Christmas day we might arrive......
                    Fuel and water both ok  

22 December

A reminder that there is another world out there.....

To: "wiksberg" <john.kirkus@kolumbus.fi>
Subject: BBQ
X-MID: 1172_m0jrk
X-Type: Email; Outmail
Date: 22 Dec 2003 13:17:19 -0000
X-From: m0jrk
X-Status: Sent
X-Via: HF.KB6YNO
X-Date: 2003/12/22 13:17:20

Very quickly in case I can catch you..............
You are invited to Jul Afton BBQ on beach at St Anne.
Contact Patrik and Sophia  s/y Aigeas  (the couple minding the big m/v in Malta
Have great fun
pn


23 December
    
Weather definitely deteriorating. The jib has to come off.  3 reefs in the main and a couple of rolls in the genoa.

Rain

1200Z   N 15deg 37.236     W 56deg 37.408

Looks certain Richard will get in on Christmas eve!  He will keep watch on vhf.


24 December

The first sea gulls, the sky is looking very unfriendly. The skipper is messing with Christmas lights.
Light winds early but picked up considerably as the day went on. 
If Christel makes it to the BBQ it might be somewhat damp.


25 December

A really horrible night with squalls and heavy rain
3 reefs and about seven rolls in the genoa. Engine working hard.
0430  I.Cabrit light Fl 4 15sec  (not as charted) on stbd bow. Good!





0530  Grey land ahead

Not exactly Christmas weather

Göran and Pia getting a well earned sleep



Pia awoke as the sun managed to pierce the clouds astern  and was amazed to see

              LAND



Pia in the sunshine and Martinique ahead......

10.00 Moored alongside Cul de Sac Marin awaiting formalities.

Log 5325.8.....Trip 5325.8 - 2751.7 = 2,574.1

Total elapsed time for trip Gomera to Martinique  20 days     and 25 hours (!)

Cleared in ... no sign of Christel who overslept after her long flight.

26 December

Motored out from Marin to anchorage off St Anne
Pia and Göran aboard, C&J relaxing in hotel.

27 December

All change....C aboard, P&G to B&B
Which turned out to be a wise move on their part.....because

29 December

The threatened weather deterioration arrived....




Torrential (tropical even) rain and gusting plenty



                                       Fortunately all anchors were well set .                                                                                Our nearest neighbour was dressed overall to celebrate her arrival in paradise.

30 December

A day aboard, tidying up and preparing for the trip Southwards.




31 December


The weather became innocent again!

New Years Eve on the beach at St Annes



In the distance, HMS Diamond Rock....a pre-cursor to the battle of Trafalgar. 



                                            Here endeth the first year of my retirement.




This was our track for the Atlantic voyage December 2003






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