This is a month by month log of Bluesipp's Voyage.
If you really want to wade through the whole thing just go down, past the globes, to March 2003 and start reading! But beware, when you reach the bottom and want to see the next month you must select "Older Posts" sorry about that!
If you want to be more selective, click the INDEX on the left.
Westward with Bluesipp
A Retrospective Log of the voyage..................Please scroll down
Globes
Experiment with globes ....... I will gradually change these draft tracks to what we actually sailed as the log writing progresses. The globes below are just sketches to help me with the layout.
And this is central text I do hope. how did I get four similar globes?
Starting with Med and Atlantic. Re do the pacific to go from
panama to OZ.......... Done temporarily
.up99ui7yp97yp97yp978youhölhijäoiyup90y7p98y7p90y7p908yhuoöuyhäo9guyhäo9i7yugt9oi7uytgä9o78uyäo90y8häo90y8u0'o8uy'ä0po8yu0'po8yu0'poy8u'0po8yu'o08yuä'o08yuä'o08u'0pou'po089upo0'u'p09up0'9iuj'p09Atlantic
That was Far East jkiygöiyå9i7y9oiyg9i7utyg9i7utyg9öig9öi7tgö9i7tyg9öi7tyg9öi7uy9oiy7u9öi7uyo97yäo97yäo97yäo978uyäo97yäo978yäo9yä9öå7tp86ro6de5sw5uu5q
And finally
The Huge Pacific |
Atlantic Ocean |
Starting with Med and Atlantic. Re do the pacific to go from
panama to OZ.......... Done temporarily
.up99ui7yp97yp97yp978youhölhijäoiyup90y7p98y7p90y7p908yhuoöuyhäo9guyhäo9i7yugt9oi7uytgä9o78uyäo90y8häo90y8u0'o8uy'ä0po8yu0'po8yu0'poy8u'0po8yu'o08yuä'o08yuä'o08u'0pou'po089upo0'u'p09up0'9iuj'p09Atlantic
Then came the big blue Pacific
Then the Far EastAustralasia |
Indian Ocean |
That was Far East jkiygöiyå9i7y9oiyg9i7utyg9i7utyg9öig9öi7tgö9i7tyg9öi7tyg9öi7uy9oiy7u9öi7uyo97yäo97yäo97yäo978uyäo97yäo978yäo9yä9öå7tp86ro6de5sw5uu5q
And finally
March 2003
Trying to find a good layout for the time being I'll just start
KEMER
Our original Home Port
In Kemer the sun came out but the winds continued
KEMER
Our original Home Port
I arrived here from Finland via Munich on Monday 17 March 2003 .
Bluesipp's covers had been removed, the decks rinsed and flowers arranged in the cockpit.
Quite lovely. Kemer was undoubtedly the best run marina on the entire circumnavigation. Thanks to the remarkable Hasan.
The weather was not quite so welcoming - windy wet and cold!
Trish and Ted (Rhumb Line) invited me to a very jolly dinner - We had first met Trish swimming the length of Ucagiz creek on our very first trip towards Kemer.
Kaleucagiz is at theSW corner of the view below.
This also shows our track (yellow) leaving Kemer, our port of departure and arriving at Finike (white) our final port.
The rest of March was spent on electric cabling, painting the bottom with Gelshield and installing the HF radio including its earthing and aerial arrangements. Many evenings spent before the roaring fire in the Navigator.
On Thursday 20th Irak was invaded.
Bluesipp's covers had been removed, the decks rinsed and flowers arranged in the cockpit.
Quite lovely. Kemer was undoubtedly the best run marina on the entire circumnavigation. Thanks to the remarkable Hasan.
The weather was not quite so welcoming - windy wet and cold!
Trish and Ted (Rhumb Line) invited me to a very jolly dinner - We had first met Trish swimming the length of Ucagiz creek on our very first trip towards Kemer.
Kaleucagiz is at theSW corner of the view below.
This also shows our track (yellow) leaving Kemer, our port of departure and arriving at Finike (white) our final port.
Our outward and homeward tracks cross!! |
The rest of March was spent on electric cabling, painting the bottom with Gelshield and installing the HF radio including its earthing and aerial arrangements. Many evenings spent before the roaring fire in the Navigator.
On Thursday 20th Irak was invaded.
In Kemer the sun came out but the winds continued
April 2003
April started with the removal of the main water tank. No mean feat. This is the second time the tanks have failed since new. (After the farce of getting new tanks from Sweden last time I decided to encase them in GRP.) On board Catana ( Göran and Pia) for dinner - to extract me from the chaos on Bluesipp.
Electrical installation continued! I got the water tanks back and the electrics finished before meeting Christel in Antalya.
The final job before launching was to replace the toilet seacock with a good solid Blakes affair. We launched on 17April and were back on G pontoon by 1400 hours. The weather was damp but not windy.
A break in the work for a jolly breakfast and a bithday party in the Navigator in the afternoon
A lovely bouquet
And my first Nokia Mobile.
Also my first digital camera (Olympus) - not shown as it was busy at the time.
The engine room was clearly still in pieces!
Again Hasan had come up trumps for a double birthday party and cakes with candles.
Sadly I have lost the name of my co-celebrant.
At last the weather took a turn for the better as many boats prepared for departure. Some worrying rumours and counter rumours about the cost of Greek cruising permits.
Strong winds were still forecast as the larger yachts declared open "house" at a general farewell party.
Christel photographing Toucan Tango (Anne and Garry)
and then relaxing with Paul (Jidda Jinn) and me aboard the huge catamaran Vision (Frank and Tari)
Jollifications continued well into the evening
luckily our very good friend Stuart (LadyAeolus) managed to avoid repeating his famous gangplan walking trick.
Finally on 29April with most jobs done and many farewells Bluesipp dropped her moorings and the voyage began
Trish waves us away at 0700 on a beautiful calm and blue morning
Farewell Kemer
and goodbye mount Bey Daglari (aka Diddly Dag)
May 2003
May 2003
Actually this post starts on 29 April when we had left Kemer and arrived in Kekova (Ucagis) at 17.30 having had a satisfactory little "race" with a fully crewed 40 footer!
Ucagis has a slightly tricky entrance to the anchorage which
we used probably more than any other after the circumnavigation.
On this occasion we stayed for just one night and were aboard Vision for a sundowner.
The pictures below are from later visits.
PICTURES xxxxxxxxx
From Kekova we sailed to Kas in order to clear out of Turkey. Luckily there was space to go bows-to at the Customs station and all went smoothly - we were duly stamped out for no charge. Cleared Kas 1500. From there directly across to the Greek island of N. Kastellorizo (4.2 nm).
A sleepy village set amidst a lovely Turkish archipelago
After a peaceful day we prepared for a longer trip starting the following afternoon and at 1415 on May Day we took our leave from Kastellorizo
We were waved on our way by a
cheerful Greek fisherman - and had a lovely pod of dolphins for company
Actually this post starts on 29 April when we had left Kemer and arrived in Kekova (Ucagis) at 17.30 having had a satisfactory little "race" with a fully crewed 40 footer!
Ucagis has a slightly tricky entrance to the anchorage which
we used probably more than any other after the circumnavigation.
On this occasion we stayed for just one night and were aboard Vision for a sundowner.
The pictures below are from later visits.
PICTURES xxxxxxxxx
From Kekova we sailed to Kas in order to clear out of Turkey. Luckily there was space to go bows-to at the Customs station and all went smoothly - we were duly stamped out for no charge. Cleared Kas 1500. From there directly across to the Greek island of N. Kastellorizo (4.2 nm).
A sleepy village set amidst a lovely Turkish archipelago
After a peaceful day we prepared for a longer trip starting the following afternoon and at 1415 on May Day we took our leave from Kastellorizo
cheerful Greek fisherman - and had a lovely pod of dolphins for company
(Photos can be enlarged by clicking on them. Then returned to the previous size by clicking on the boxed cross in the top right corner.)
We decided to avoid Rhodes and to head directly for Karpathos.
It was an overnight sail, Christel and I standing 4 hour watches. A beautiful night with a good breeze and fantastic luminescence.
At 1025 2nd May we were moored alongside the wall at Diafani. A trip of 124nm.
We had arrived on the village's saints day and attended an extraordinary evening of dancing and apparently of betrothal which according to ancient custom should only take place on this one night of the year
Unfortunately I had not yet learned to use my new camera in low lighting so I have only the one picture
The following day I was still a bit under the weather with rather bad herpes on my nose so Christel went alone all the way up to Olimpos village.
And then on Sunday 4th May we sailed via Pigadhia (Karpathos harbour) to Nisos Kasos and anchored in a protected bay on the Southern tip.
The following day I was still a bit under the weather with rather bad herpes on my nose so Christel went alone all the way up to Olimpos village.
And then on Sunday 4th May we sailed via Pigadhia (Karpathos harbour) to Nisos Kasos and anchored in a protected bay on the Southern tip.
Monday 5th May, aweigh 0815 on passage toward Sitia. Wind NNW 23kt, 2 reefs and small genoa.
Moored in the marina at 1730 (75nm.) Good trip !
Moored in the marina at 1730 (75nm.) Good trip !
Spent 6th May trying to sort gas bottle connectors and basic provisioning. Some rather disgruntled boats from an around the world rally. Management had not been good and the boats did not seem to be talking to one another. Not too positive impression but then I was on antibiotics and maybe not at my best!
Wednesday 7th May saw f5 WNW which was not too helpful for the trip around to Ag Nikolaos.
A fairly bumpy ride with Christel chewing valiantly on sea sickness chewing gum.
By this stage the reverse circumnavigation (sailing towards the sunrise) began to seem a bad idea.
Ag Nikolaus
Seemingly a much more pleasant marina. Everything needed for provisioning was available. We arranged a car rental for Friday.
The site is a re-creation of Knossos as it might have been.
A pleasant and peaceful "de-ruined" palace.
Saturday 10th May
We dropped our moorings in a calm marina with a forecast useful NE f4
Passed the fortifications on Mikronisi and continued Northwards under engine to an overnight anchorage South of Spinolonga.
12 May
Northwards around Capo Agios Ioannis and on to the off lying islet of Dhia (Dia) where we could find only one bay with reasonable holding.
However it was quite dramatic with high barren cliffs and we picked up a mooring after other boats had left.
Fairly active bird life with gull chicks on the ledges and to Christel's joy a pair of huge Buteo Rufus
(Wikipedia picture)
The following day (13 May) was very nearly calm with a misty dawn and entirely beautiful.
We motored most of the way to Rethimon.
The contrast between the serene church on the headland as we altered course into the bay and the busy streets with an almost moorish feel was quite remarkable
Rethimon
We enjoyed a very pleasant evening - with cheerful troubadors!
Wednesday 14 May Christel took the bus into Heraklion and flew home to Finland.
The next day was spent fitting the Pactor equipment to provide the possibility of emails via the HAM short wave network.
16 May began with an almost total eclipse of the moon followed by planning for the onward voyage
Sat 17 May Rethimon Westwards - Moorings dropped 0530.
And my first Pactor email arrived from Richard (Hula) while I was dodging a small Greek military vessel!
We had light NE winds so Perkins was helping the Genny as I contemplated an overnight anchorage on Gramvosa (Crete) or the possibility of making it all the way to Kythira.
At 1400 I decided to try for Kythira. The wind was helpful and Perkins willing.
We arrived by moonlight with twinkling onshore lights and the harbour lighthouse. But not much else
23.30!
I was happy to get the anchor down somewhere inside Kapsali anchorage.
Sunday 18 May Kapsali harbour (Kythira)
And here is the view next morning. The anchor was in stones and not very secure. There was space alongside on the quay so I shifted berths.
And here is how it looked from the hillside.A truly lovely little harbour.
Monday was rather windy and there was a little juggling of lines . An English boat joined us...the skipper shouting curses at his crew (wife?) She doing her best with his ropes muttering Yes captain Bligh, No captain Bligh (not quite) under her breath.
Tuesday was calmer and the boats seemed comfortable so I hired a motor scooter and had a delightful tour of the island.
The castle walls with a small chapel and a spring flowers photo for Christel!
A French couple - with an Italian flag - alongside in a tiny fishing harbour (Ag Pelagia ?).
They had been 8 days at sea without engine and evidently not able to make harbour. They did not seem too distressed.
The imposing castle from "inland"
I returned the scooter without silencer in the evening to a slightly vexed agent.
The forecast for Wednesday looked hopeful and with- according to Iraklion Radio - a "significant change" approaching (N to NW 7/8) It seemed time to go.
Wednesday 21 May
Departure from Kythira castle
Kythira to Kalamata
80nm
A trip with baffling winds and finally a push by Perkins to get in before it became too dark. The marina seemed fairly deserted but a couple from a nearby boat were most helpful when they realised I was singlehanded.
Kalamata was a large port and agricultural centre where everything could eventually be found even Lidl and a chandler..
It also turned out to be well sheltered as the forecast northerlies arrived.
It was time to do some serious connection work to the pair of bow batteries using heavy duty wiring and serious crimping and soldering. Worries that temporary connections might have produced an opencircuit on the second alternator and killed some diodes proved unfounded. Bought a very agricultural battery charger.
As in so many other places a blackbird was singing his heart out.
I was a little less cheerful because the Adverc monitoring system simply did not make sense.
However I did get good SW reception despite the masts all around and I did find a good internet cafe.
I was getting GRIB files and the weather seemed about to settle. It remained cold however.
Saturday 31May
Pactor now working correctly, auto tuning works perfectly and the Digital Monitor now makes sense.
Major clean and tidy up.
Wednesday 7th May saw f5 WNW which was not too helpful for the trip around to Ag Nikolaos.
A fairly bumpy ride with Christel chewing valiantly on sea sickness chewing gum.
By this stage the reverse circumnavigation (sailing towards the sunrise) began to seem a bad idea.
Ag Nikolaus
Seemingly a much more pleasant marina. Everything needed for provisioning was available. We arranged a car rental for Friday.
Navigation tips
At least some of the road signs were bi-lingual
Living in clover Cretan style
The site is a re-creation of Knossos as it might have been.
A pleasant and peaceful "de-ruined" palace.
Saturday 10th May
We dropped our moorings in a calm marina with a forecast useful NE f4
Passed the fortifications on Mikronisi and continued Northwards under engine to an overnight anchorage South of Spinolonga.
12 May
Northwards around Capo Agios Ioannis and on to the off lying islet of Dhia (Dia) where we could find only one bay with reasonable holding.
However it was quite dramatic with high barren cliffs and we picked up a mooring after other boats had left.
Fairly active bird life with gull chicks on the ledges and to Christel's joy a pair of huge Buteo Rufus
(Wikipedia picture)
We motored most of the way to Rethimon.
The contrast between the serene church on the headland as we altered course into the bay and the busy streets with an almost moorish feel was quite remarkable
Rethimon
Wednesday 14 May Christel took the bus into Heraklion and flew home to Finland.
The next day was spent fitting the Pactor equipment to provide the possibility of emails via the HAM short wave network.
16 May began with an almost total eclipse of the moon followed by planning for the onward voyage
Sat 17 May Rethimon Westwards - Moorings dropped 0530.
And my first Pactor email arrived from Richard (Hula) while I was dodging a small Greek military vessel!
We had light NE winds so Perkins was helping the Genny as I contemplated an overnight anchorage on Gramvosa (Crete) or the possibility of making it all the way to Kythira.
At 1400 I decided to try for Kythira. The wind was helpful and Perkins willing.
We arrived by moonlight with twinkling onshore lights and the harbour lighthouse. But not much else
23.30!
I was happy to get the anchor down somewhere inside Kapsali anchorage.
Sunday 18 May Kapsali harbour (Kythira)
And here is the view next morning. The anchor was in stones and not very secure. There was space alongside on the quay so I shifted berths.
And here is how it looked from the hillside.A truly lovely little harbour.
Monday was rather windy and there was a little juggling of lines . An English boat joined us...the skipper shouting curses at his crew (wife?) She doing her best with his ropes muttering Yes captain Bligh, No captain Bligh (not quite) under her breath.
Tuesday was calmer and the boats seemed comfortable so I hired a motor scooter and had a delightful tour of the island.
The castle walls with a small chapel and a spring flowers photo for Christel!
A French couple - with an Italian flag - alongside in a tiny fishing harbour (Ag Pelagia ?).
They had been 8 days at sea without engine and evidently not able to make harbour. They did not seem too distressed.
The imposing castle from "inland"
I returned the scooter without silencer in the evening to a slightly vexed agent.
The forecast for Wednesday looked hopeful and with- according to Iraklion Radio - a "significant change" approaching (N to NW 7/8) It seemed time to go.
Wednesday 21 May
Departure from Kythira castle
Kythira to Kalamata
80nm
A trip with baffling winds and finally a push by Perkins to get in before it became too dark. The marina seemed fairly deserted but a couple from a nearby boat were most helpful when they realised I was singlehanded.
Kalamata was a large port and agricultural centre where everything could eventually be found even Lidl and a chandler..
It also turned out to be well sheltered as the forecast northerlies arrived.
It was time to do some serious connection work to the pair of bow batteries using heavy duty wiring and serious crimping and soldering. Worries that temporary connections might have produced an opencircuit on the second alternator and killed some diodes proved unfounded. Bought a very agricultural battery charger.
As in so many other places a blackbird was singing his heart out.
I was a little less cheerful because the Adverc monitoring system simply did not make sense.
However I did get good SW reception despite the masts all around and I did find a good internet cafe.
I was getting GRIB files and the weather seemed about to settle. It remained cold however.
Saturday 31May
Pactor now working correctly, auto tuning works perfectly and the Digital Monitor now makes sense.
Major clean and tidy up.
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